Advice on Buying a First gen?

[Grizzly]

Hi all,

I am thinking about geting a first gen as a Runner, I'm just after some Info such as what to look for (what goes and where they rot).

The other thing that Intrests me is i heard that some of the Last FB's had Na 13b's fitted is this correct?

Thanks.

Chris

P.S. Out of intrest what sort of MPG do you get from your 12A NA's?

[MikeLMR]

Ok , most important topics first

Rust

The main area to check is the rear inner arches where a reinorcing plate is welded to the arch - see below

http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1588

The rear of the outer sills rot out

The gap around the glass hatch rots as the drains get blocked

same with the sunroof surounds

the thin metal that holds the window seals on rots out and allows the window seals to move when winding them up or down

All round the top of the front bulkhead where water sits can rot

the bonnet can harbour a lot of rust

errr basically scour the whole car ! wheels wells are the prime candidate and I'd bet 90% off all 1st gens are rotten in this area!


Suspension/brakes/steering

Rear brake calliper tend to seize so make sure the hand brake works properly and the disks look clean and shiney (if its fitted with rear disks)

all FB's have some slop in the steering box when the wheel is in the centre , this should disapear as lock is wound on and it shouldn't be too excesive (1" - 1.5" at the rim??)

Check the idler arm on the opposite side to the steering box (its basically a dummy box on the passenger side) The bushings in this tend to disintegrate and makes for "interesting" handling!
this is not a big job to change nor expensive (<£10 for parts from Mazda)

Engine etc.

Normal rotary drill here :) cold start, hot start, smoke etc. etc.

Exhaust - these are expensive so make sure its in good nick, unless you plan on fitting a performance one in the near future :)

Electrical

check the electric windows, they tend to stick

make sure all the switches and gizmo's work

misc

check the rear hatch struts work OK as they tend to be worn out and are expensive to replace (good bargaining tool here!)

check the passenge side lock and the rear hatch lock , they are little used and tend to stick

models/engines/spec etc.

RX7 1st gen SA22c or FB

1979 - 1980 - 1st Gen MK1
Chassis code SA22c
Engine - 12a 101hp
front dics - rear drums
13" wheels

1981 - 1983 - 1st Gen MK2
Chassis code FB
Engine 12a 115hp
front discs - rear non vented dics
13" wheels with wider tires
revised bodywork (molded in bumpers)
revised interior

1984 - 1986 - 1st Gen MK3
Chassis code FB
Engine 12a 115hp
vented discs all round
revised front air dam with brake ducts
revised suspension with wider track and different pcd on wheels
14" wheels
revised interior

thats most of the changes anyway :)

the 13b 6PI was never an option outside the US market :(

[MikeLMR]

oh and mpg

I've had between 30ish mpg and 15ish mpg

thats the difference between my dad driving the car back from Norfolk when I bought it to me chasing down a Robin hood kit car and having some fun :)

[Grizzly]

Thanks for that, Good reading.

Got to be better than my MPG at the Moment (i've just taken my T2 of the road again but it was doing 20ish driven smoothly and more like 6-8 driven hard if that)

So im driving a :censored::censored::censored::censored:'ed on thing about at the moment this is why i'm Intrested?

Is'nt it allways the Same things go wrong and you need to buy stuff when your trying to save?

LOL

Chris

[MikeLMR]

that was a long post ... and I can't spell ! :D

ouch! 6-8 mpg ... the americans will be accusing you of being anti war as you have vested interest in Iraqi oil ! :rollin

[Grizzly]

You have got to love it, spend all that money building the Thing and cant run it?

Power comes with a Price! (realy low MPG) i guess its no diffrent from any other car of simallar bhp but that does'nt make my bank manager any happier.

Week end car i think ;)

Chris