clive
17th January 2004, 10:39 AM
One of the first things to check if your Rotary decides to run 'lumpy' is a compression check to find out if you have lost compression due to one of the three tips per Rotor being damaged or stuck in.
Although the proper way is with expensive Mazda equipment to give you the correct compression readings there are quick ways of at least checking if you at least have compression on both Rotors.
Take out the Trailing plug from one Rotor [ the top one ] and pull out either a relay or fuse to stop the engine starting and get someone to turn the key whilst holding the throttle wide open.
There are now two ways of checking, one is simply turn the engine over and listen for the ''chuffing'' that you will hear coming from the spark plug hole this ''chuffing'' should be constant with no ''gaps'' , once you have done this to one Rotor then put the plug back in and repeated the process with the other Rotor you will soon realise if the ''chuffing'' varies at all from Rotor to Rotor.
The other way is by using a conventional piston engine compression tester but you must disable the non-return valve or hold the button on the side in to use these, as the engine turns over you will notice the needle ''flick'' up and down and obviously you are looking for the readings to be consistent from one Rotor to the other.
Although the proper way is with expensive Mazda equipment to give you the correct compression readings there are quick ways of at least checking if you at least have compression on both Rotors.
Take out the Trailing plug from one Rotor [ the top one ] and pull out either a relay or fuse to stop the engine starting and get someone to turn the key whilst holding the throttle wide open.
There are now two ways of checking, one is simply turn the engine over and listen for the ''chuffing'' that you will hear coming from the spark plug hole this ''chuffing'' should be constant with no ''gaps'' , once you have done this to one Rotor then put the plug back in and repeated the process with the other Rotor you will soon realise if the ''chuffing'' varies at all from Rotor to Rotor.
The other way is by using a conventional piston engine compression tester but you must disable the non-return valve or hold the button on the side in to use these, as the engine turns over you will notice the needle ''flick'' up and down and obviously you are looking for the readings to be consistent from one Rotor to the other.