How to: Chainge your clutch!!

[Jono FD3]

Right then....... this is a little story of my weekend, which so happens to include chainging a clutch on an FD!!!!

Let the story begin.................

After cleaning the car to get all the crudd off I desided while the weather was semi decent I would sort out the garage & chainge my clutch!!!
The car in question is:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290020.jpg
and this is my garage (or old mans):
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290023.jpg

This is the pit I'm going to use to do the job:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290024.jpg

But there is a slight problem!!!! so I'll be doing this job while on my knees!!!
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290025.jpg


The first thing you will need to remove (if it's still on your car that is) is this gearbox protector by removing 4 10mm bolts (one in each corner):
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290026.jpg

Now remove the air pipe to the cat by unbolting the joint on the cat side & remove the air pipr from above the down pipe:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290027.jpg

The next thing to come off is the exhaust. the bolts will be very tight so you will need a tourque rench or something with alot of leverage to shift these bu66ers!! Also you may find the mounting rubbers stuck, so a bit of wd40 will soon sort that out!
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290030.jpg

Now the exhaust is out of the way, remove the cross brace by undoing 4 12mm bolts
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290031.jpg

Now to the rear of the car....... you will have to remove the plastic tray on the passenger side of the car to get at 2 12mm bolts that undo the rear cross brace!! there are 4 12mm bolts that will need to be removed so you can slide the brace out!
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290033.jpg

Now is the time to drop the gearbox oil or your going to get plasterd!!! Just undo the 24mm bolt at the bottom of the box & have an old oil can to catch the oil that comes out (it should be about 2.5 - 3L)

Back to the rear of the car now!! Befor you remove the drive shaft it is advisable to mark it in some way (tipex will be OK for this):
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290038.jpg

Now unbolt the 4 14mm bolts that hold the shaft to the diff, give a light tug on the shaft & it should come away from the diff, now just slide it out of the box.

Now you have to remove the main gearbox / diff brace!!! this is done by removing the 5 bolts at the rear:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290039.jpg

And the 4 at the front
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290040.jpg

watch your fingers while removing the brace..... it's not particularly heavy, but it will make a nice mess of what ever it lands on!!! The diff will move on the rubber mounts so dont be alarmed if you see your diff at an angle!!!!
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290041.jpg

Nows the time to sort out the inside by removing the gear knob & centre console, so the shifter will come through the floor!!
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290042.jpg

It shoul look something like this by the end of it:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290043.jpg

Now remove your battery + terminal, & then the starter motor (the top bolt is actualy a nut & bolt, not a stud with a nut on it!!:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290044.jpg

Once the starter is out of the way, it's on to the clutch cylinder (above the cylinder there is a 10mm bolt holding th eclutch pipe to the boxdon't forget to remove this like I did, you could break the pipe!!!):
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290046.jpg

Now remove the small plate with the warning sticker telling you to look at the manual!! 2 10mm bolts on this too!
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290048.jpg

Now gaze in at the weirdness known as a pull clutch!!!
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290049.jpg

Next is to unbolt the gear box..... there are 5 14mm bolts holding it to the engine, 2 at the bottom what are easy to get at, 2 towards the top )drivers side one is a bit of a fiddle!)
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290050.jpg
& another at the top, best to get at this one from under the bonnet! Its at the middle, top of the pic just befor the dark section!:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290052.jpg

Now undo all the plugs that are on the passenger side of the gearbox
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290051.jpg

Now you need to disengage the clutch mechanism:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=uPCi4RpGQCU

Now remove the box..... this is realy a 2 man job as it is a little awcward so one body at the bell housing & one at the shifter, wiggle the box back & lay it on the floor (the box isn't heavy for 2 people but might be too heavy for one person to handle!!

Now you need to unbolt the 6 retaining bolts that hold the pressure plate & clutch mechanism:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290053.jpg
Once unbolted use a screw driver or lever bar to pull it off the locating pins!!

Next to get out is the pilot bairing (but only if you have a replacement!!!) if you dont have a new one just grease up the one that is in there ready for the refit!!
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290059.jpg

[m4drx]

and then.........

:)

[Jono FD3]

Blimy!!!!! I was only half way through when you butted in:2Rolleyes

Now the gearbox is off..... tomorow the refit story will start :Thumbsup!

Jono

[m4drx]

sorry :( just wondering away...

seem more complicated then i thought.

actually alot of it and other jobs are just long..... but not too difficult


good luck mate, make sure to post up for us (and then someone can remove what i said and make sticky icky)

[Jono FD3]

Okey cokey matey!!!

My legs are so stiff after spending all that time on my knees, & rolling the car back & fore on the pit!!!! I don't realy want to go back in there now!!!!

But I supose I'll have to!!!!

[antnicuk]

keep up the good work, when you asked you didnt say you had a pit, that makes a lot easier! You shouldnt be able to drop the gearbox on your nose!

[m4drx]

Okey cokey matey!!!

My legs are so stiff after spending all that time on my knees, & rolling the car back & fore on the pit!!!! I don't realy want to go back in there now!!!!

But I supose I'll have to!!!!

i know the feeling mate, spent months of weekends and nights on mine and i dont have a garage so it as many layers as possible and a good torch!

when its done its all worth it. knackered but worth it :Thumbsup!

[ace-rx7]

nice write up jono, it took you so long cause of all the stopping and starting for pics :D
well if/when mine starts to go i know where to come !

[Jono FD3]

keep up the good work, when you asked you didnt say you had a pit, that makes a lot easier! You shouldnt be able to drop the gearbox on your nose!
Yea, it's got further to fall..... so it will just shatter your foot instead!!!

nice write up jono, it took you so long cause of all the stopping and starting for pics :D
well if/when mine starts to go i know where to come !
Yea, WGT, RE:works, Dragon.......... Take your pic :rollin :rollin

Yea pics made it take a little longer, but I thought it would benafit you guys!!!

Jono

[Jono FD3]

Right then, now you've got the clutch off, give the fly wheel a light rub with some emery cloth, just to rough up the surface a little (this will help the new clutch bed in!!)

Fit the new clutch system to the flywheel, but be warned the clutch plate will only fit one way!! This is normaly company logo out! if you get it on the wrong way the clutch will not work! Test the clutch plate against the flywheel, as one way you will have metal to metal and the correct way you will have the material on the clutch plate against the flywheel!

Once this is sorted fit the clutch system to the flywheel & put a few bolts in finger tight to hold it all in place:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1300060.jpg

Now fit your line up tool to centre the clutch plate:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1300061.jpg

Now just nip up the 6 retaining bolts (just enough to hold the clutch plate central!)

Now chainge your release bairing on the box:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1300062.jpg

This is done by undoing the 2 14mm bolts that hold the clutch arm in place (you will have to lever the arm off the box!!) Now refit with the new bairing:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1300063.jpg

Now you are set to fit the box! This again is a 2 man job.
Now slide the box in to place (well I say slide.... you will hve to wiggle & tap to get it seated!!) By leving the bolts on the clutch slightly loose it will alow the clutch plate to centre itself (if it's not toaly spot on!)

Now get a few bolts in finger tight while the second person holds the pressure at the back of the box!! Now your bolted up you can tighten the clutch bolts through the inspection hole (you will need a second pair of hands to hold a screw driver to stop the flywheel from turning!!)

Now you can engage the Release bairing by simpley levering it in to the clutch plate (Lever against the clutch arm rather that the bairing)
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1300064.jpg

Now refit the clutch cylinder, but don't forget about the bracket that holds the pipe to the box!!:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1300066.jpg

Now refit the starter motor & hook up the power leads:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1300067.jpg

Next to go back is the gearbox / diff brace...... fit this to the diff first using 2 of the 5 bolts, then lift the front up to the box & again secure it to the box with 2 bolts. you can now relax for a bit!!!! Put the remaining bolts on the brace & tighten them up (Tight, as this is a structural item!!!)
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1300069.jpg

Now if your de-cating while your doing this job, unbolt the heat sheild & put the prob behind it out of the way & re-fit the heat shield:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1300070.jpg

Next is the prop shaft..... make shure the box is in nutral...... slide the spline in to the box then get a bolt in to the diff to secure it (dont forget to line up your marks on the diff & propshaft!!!) Now put the remainingbolts in and tighten them up:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1300071.jpg

Now you need to refit the cross brace that goes through the gearbox / diff brace, & then refit the plastic tray you have unbolted:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1300072.jpg

Now you need to refit the inspection cover on the box (but first you should test the clutch peddle a few times, because if the bairing isn't seated properly it will pop out, resulting in the peddle staying on the floor & no clutch!!)
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1300073.jpg

Now you have to fit the cross brace that sits under the gear box :
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1300074.jpg

Now the you have to refit the exhaust:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290030.jpg

If your not de-cating dont forget to put the pipe back on to the cat:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290028.jpg

Then refit the gearbox protection plate secured by the 4 10mm bolts:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/jonathandudley/REX/P1290026.jpg


The last job you have to do is refill the box with gear oil:
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11205

Now your back on the road!!!!

Hope this helps all you DIY'ers that would do the job, but feel daunted by the prospects of doing a pull clutch for the first time. I did it myself as I couldn't afford to get someone to do it for me, & to be honest it wasn't a bad job, just time consuming removing all the bits & bobs!!!

Jono

P.S. I hope this is worthy of a sticky??:Thumbs-up

[FD3SNuttah]

well done matey!!! how did your first drive go?

[strange_days_uk]

good work JD, I may well DIY mine as it's slipping more than a little now I got me single tub

hmm

[Jono FD3]

First drive is yet to come mate as I'm doing a few other things to it while it's in the garage (Befor the garage fills up with junk!!!) but it all seams to work OK!!

DIY'ing it will save you more than a few pennies Si, but put aside a full weekend as you will always encounter something you didn't expect, like snapped studs in the exhaust or something!!!!

Jono

[m4drx]

well done mate! appreciate the time taken to write up but im sure this will come of use to many people.

cheers :Thumbsup!

[Waddock]

I have been looking every where for a guide in doing this! :god

I think I will be printing it out and spending all of next week on my back looking at dirty pictures ;)

[Ricco_04]

Brilliant! :god

[RedRummy]

WOW... never knew there was so much involved... but then I am a total noobie...

Now I appreciate those labour charges!! (well, almost!!)

:god :eek: :wave

[Crazy Eddie]

Really good write up Jono and very very good of you to post up this thread.
It is worth it's weight in gold nice 1 :Thumbs-up

[ro284]

Cant believe i only just saw this! Well done Jono, brilliant step by step with pics too, Thanks for taking the time to do all that, all this info is invaluable for the club and guys who need to do this job! this would be good as a sticky, it's going in my favourites, it's also helpfull for just seeing under the car! :Thumbsup!
Cheers Bob

[strange_days_uk]

JD can 2 people do this job in a day ? IE me and my matey gonna try it next week ???

Swap out the clutch and release bearing. No pit, Axle stands and beer in the sun !

[Jono FD3]

Hia mate,

It took me about 6 hours to drop the box, so yea, with 2 of you it should be do-able, with an early start!! although I think the beers in the sun may add a few hours to the time & add a few humorous moments!!

Jono

[strange_days_uk]

Nice, well wish me luck for next weekend.

[cannibal]

Excellent write up, perfect timing as I'm going to do mine with my father in a few weeks, thanks.

[SupraZed]

Has anyone without previous experience of changing a clutch managed to change theirs using just the guide. I'd love to be able to do such a job, once I've got a car that is!!:chat

[N777CK T]

I need a new clutch and would like to save myself a nice £150-£200... I'd like to be able to do this... how easy it is really... it looks so simple in these write ups!
is it different for different types of clutches or do they all fit the same way?

[RobbieRX-7]

I reckon it will be a slag to do without a pit. You need to roll the car backwards and forwards to undo the prop shaft bolts .Prob easier to remove the engine

[nikp]

I did mine without a pit. Just stuck it on 4 axle stands. Wasn't too bad.

[nikp]

I need a new clutch and would like to save myself a nice £150-£200... I'd like to be able to do this... how easy it is really... it looks so simple in these write ups!
is it different for different types of clutches or do they all fit the same way?

If it's an fd it's pretty straight forward. I had never done mine before, and just used guides and advice. Nothing went wrong either. Well, ok, i undid the oil drain plug on the gearbox the wrong way, stripped the thread and had to get a new plate that goes on the bottom of the gearbox!! But APART from that (Which was my own stupidity!) nothing went wrong.

I did also try and lift the gearbox back up all by myself, which didn't work very well. Had to get a mate to help me on that one.

[Martiny]

Thanks for the link to the video, I manage to get my pressure plate off this evening.

[Bobbit]

I'll be using this write up when me clutch arrives, looks fairly simple, if a little daunting. Only thing I am a bit iffy about is marking the drive shaft and removing removing the bolts. I understand why you would need to roll the car, but if i'm gonna use axle stands will turning both rear wheels in the same direction at the same time do the job? And the mark itself, that needs to be on the shaft and the diff itself, is that correct?
Great write up tho Jono, I've never done a clutch before but i'm willing to give it a whirl! (Just got to get my hands on some brave pills before i give it a go for real!)

[batman]

top diy mate very well done

[Draco]

great post. very helpful indeed

[gandyRX]

well done matey certinally helps me out

[shaunwil]

Good write up. When I did mine it was a mare due to all the extra braces I have fitted. The Hardest bit I found was making sure that the slave cylinder pickup was correctly clipped into position.

Plus the pull clutch refused to release and i had to remove the pressure plate off with the gearbox in place.

Took me quite a while but I ended up having fun mating the box up.

Shaun

[dthebuk]

Just looked in my haynes manual (should be putting the clutch in this weekend...yes its only just come). And it basically says to fully tighten the clutch before you put the transmission back on. Just wondering what your views are on this as you've obviously done it differently. The only problem i could see with tightening the bolts through the inspection cover is that i might be hard to stop the flywheel from moving.

Any info on this would be great :D

[nuki]

use the clutch allignment tool then tighten the bolts on the preassure plate to the flywheel then when you attach the gearbox just doubble check the bolts are tight through the inspection plate on the underside of the gearbox..Be sure you put the clutch plate the right way round beween the preassure plate and the flywheel. Using a big screwdriver you can lock the flywheel cogs against the gearbox housing quite easy with a screw driver. cluch all in all is not a difficult job on the Fds compared to some vehicles. I used 4 axle stands and the floor and could have the job done in a morning start to finish if i had to do another. As my fd did not have one rusty bolt which i was really supprised at it made the job simple.The biggest part of the job was getting the car on 4 axle stands :) just be sure you have clicked your release bearing out of the preassure plate through the inspection plate to remove the gearbox and click it back on when you have re-attached the gearbox and also make sure you have correct adjustment on your clutch pedal master cylinder as advised by mazda. Also check your gearbox release fork for damage and make sure you have the slave cylinder plunger into the guidance hole on the clutch fork. you shouldnt have no problems. Also examine the Pilot roller Bearing in the middle of the flywheel which the gearbox main shaft tip sits in mite need to be replaced. I started the job with no manuals or guides and success about a month ago so i remember every bolt needed to be removed. 07960525204 give me a bell if you get stuck. i know what its like not having anybody to help when its a sunday afternoon :)

[Prof]

Just did the clutch on my FC this weekend gone. It's more of a PITA because the exhaust system has to come off.

I would tigthen the clutch cover to the flywheel and properly torque them up to the specs in the manual before you refit the gearbox. The alignment tool will correctly centre the clutch plate.

The issue we had was getting the box to go back onto the engine - we had one person levering the engine backward whilst two of us guided the box onto the engine with some wiggling. But it will only go so far, then you run into the problem that your pushing the pocket of trapped air where the pilot bearing is. At this point the box was withing 1/2 " of the engine. We used the two longest bolts and some sockets as spacers to 'wind' the box onto the engine - worked a treat, then when you get it near, get the rest of the bolts in and replace the longer ones for the correct bolts, tightening up the bolts evenly so the box goes on straight. The slower movement coupled with the locking action of the bolts allows the trapped air to exit whilst gradually creeping the box onto the engine. I see no reason why it wouldn't work with the FD box either.

[dthebuk]

cheers for the input guys. I actually had the car back together and finished last weekend :D

And i agree, the hardest part was the exhuast, the bolts have rusted the two bits of mine together so i couldn't get it apart.

We had three of us fitting the box, Then engine was pushed back into the bulkhead (still on the mounts) by wood so that it wouldnt fall towards the front of the car. Then we had one of us holding the bell housing, one holding the other side of the tranmission, then the last person bolted the crossmember on once the box was aligned with the engine.

Though i think we might have a slight problem. When the clutch pedal is depressed all the way down and the car is put into any gear (with the pedal still down) The revs drop so the car is almost stalling. Though if the lights are on this doesn't happen. My guess is that the clutch just needs a bit of wearing in? The car drives fine. Though its not taxed or mot'd so i cant really take it further than the drive.

once again, appreciate the help :D

[leefitz]

Very impressive writeup for sure. i have my new clutch waitning for me when i get home, along with solid engine mounts, solid diff mounts, diff and gearbox brace. so alls going in at the same time and i cant wait.
things i take it i do need is, new pilot bearing, new release bearing and a clutch lineup tool. i want to get these ordered asap cause im currently away from home and will only have a few days to sort everything so i want to be ready to go and not have to wait for parts to be delivered. but a quick question on the lineup tool, is it fd3 spacific?
any other advice would be great please, cheers lads

[Jono FD3]

Pilot bairing is optional as it is a bugger to get out with out the correct tool!! but the rest would be worth replacing! Line up tool does help alot so would be worth getting your hands on one.... they tend to come with the kits aswell, so might already be there for you ;)

Jono