Knightsport quad lights

[B9 KLF]

some queries on fitting the quad pop up lights for any folks who have had the joy of fittings these.

1/ the standard pop up travels between two adjustable stops which are obvious but if you can adjust the travel of the motor by the red knob (under the cover) what is the point of having the adjustable stops?

2/ the sports wiring kit has only one connector and I presume that this just plugs into one side - probably the battery side so the earth terminals can go straight on the battery terminal. The offside connector is left spare then?

3/ the four lamps all appear the same i.e. main beam. Any views on how to set up a dipped beam which will be biased to the left for UK use.

4/ any data on the measurements needed to set up the lights to pass an MOT.

Apart from that they are starting to look great and if anyone is interested I could do some install pics.

Keith

[Brett]

1/ I thought the red knob was there so you could manually wind the headlamps up or down if there was a problem.

4/ Both lights must be level, dip to the correct angle.

Is this on a FD or an FC btw?

[B9 KLF]

Err sorry it's an FD3.

1/ ok so the red knob just winds it manually (it says on the cover turn clockwise but I presume you can wind it back down again anti clockwise) and the adjustable stops are there to limit the travel of the electric motor to the desired position up or down.

4/ ok so the outer lamp could be tilted down to make them dipped (anyone know how far a dipped beam should project in front of yer car?) and with some black tape to stop beam spread to the offside, we should get thro an MOT. The inner lamp just remains level for main beam.

Maybe sorted then.

Just the electricial connections now then.


Keith

[Brett]

I would give your local MOT station a call, they will be happy to give advice on the dipping issue :)

[Jerico]

Hi Keith,

Would you mind telling me where you got the quad lights from and how much? I've been looking for a set and have yet to find anyone that sells them.

Also don't suppose theres any chance of some pictures with them on your car? :)

Cheers,

Matt

[paultakata]

Err sorry it's an FD3.

1/ ok so the red knob just winds it manually (it says on the cover turn clockwise but I presume you can wind it back down again anti clockwise) and the adjustable stops are there to limit the travel of the electric motor to the desired position up or down.

4/ ok so the outer lamp could be tilted down to make them dipped (anyone know how far a dipped beam should project in front of yer car?) and with some black tape to stop beam spread to the offside, we should get thro an MOT. The inner lamp just remains level for main beam.

Maybe sorted then.

Just the electricial connections now then.


Keith

1/ The red knob is there so you can move the lights up and down manually if needs be. I changed the headlight bulbs recently in my FD and the big plastic covers (the bits you see when the lights are down) didn't match up with the shutlines quite right. You have to adjust the lights from up to down and back again to be able to move the alignment of the covers. If you are brave you can do this with the up/down button on the dash, but you run the risk of catching the cover on your bodywork. BTW, the red knob only works properly if the battery is disconnected. And turning it clockwise does both up and down, it only goes one way.

4/ I thought that it was the type of bulb you used which made the light dipped or not? I could be completely wrong here though ;)

[Paul-Tll]

Make sure you keep the old ones for the MOT!
Mine have no real beam patern and one year passed , one year failed,
can change them over in no time though.Mine came with the car so it's
just swap in -swap out 10 mins a side.I'm about at most meets come have a look.
Paul..

[B9 KLF]

Would you mind telling me where you got the quad lights from and how much? I've been looking for a set and have yet to find anyone that sells them.

Hi Matt

I got the set from rotary imports.com as a one off (I think) but you can purchase them from Whiffbits or Rotary Xecret 7 about £630 ish.

Will post pics when I get them fitted

Keith

[B9 KLF]

Hi Paultakata

1/ Yeah I see what you mean about the red knob now but hopefully I can adjust the big covers by the fixings to the framework.

4/ All four of my units are the same beam spread and lamp and although I can angle one unit down I would prefer to get a lamp that is dipped with the flat cut off to the top of the beam. So I am currently searching for a lamp that will fit and be dipped. :cool

Keith

[B9 KLF]

Hi Paul- TII

Yep definately gonna keep the old units for the vagaries of the MOT :eek

Last question now I hope. Where does the sports wiring kit connect to? I presume before the standard relay since all four lamps come on when on full beam. I have a male connector with two terminals and the earth is by some separate round terminals. But where do I stick it?

Thanks guys

Keith

[Paul-Tll]

From memory the earth go'es straight on the bat. The relays are are right next to the bat. and + right on the bat post. You unplug the N/Side (LH)
lamp conector and plug in the new fiting in line. I'll have to check when i
get a chance.
Paul..

[B9 KLF]

Anyone got a wiring diagram of the headlamp relays etc so that I can complete my lighting mods?

Thanks

Keith :cheers

[B9 KLF]

Hi Paul

Thanks for your reply.

Did you mean that you unplugged the N.S. lamp unit and plugged the new junction box in there or did you trace it back to the relays (I am not sure where they are located?)

Many thanks

Keith ;)

[Paul-Tll]

The ad on unit is apigy back to the old system ,no need to touch the
original wiring at all, I'll have to double check but the new bits pug in line
from the feeds and supplys already present.Thoose feeds now instead of
feeding the lights now feed relays (The new one in the pack)
These relays now need the new suply to run through them over there
'Front' contact' to power the new lights. These new feeds are from the
Yellow wires which go straight on the bat. as they have their own inline
fuses on them.
So you UNplug both the front lights. Plug in the NEW conector on the
Pasenger L/H (N/S) and plug in new light connectors, and the unit will opperate from that point.
So now at this point aal your standard functions opperate relays instead of
lights. The unit will now do the resr v the relays.

So you must have 3 plugs on the new bit 3 yellow (Poss feed wires) and
a earth wire ?

[B9 KLF]

Ahh now I understand - the old headlight feed becomes a control wire only.

So the three yellow wires with the fuses are power from the positive side of the battery and then there are three black wires which must all be for the negative side of the battery.

Brilliant :god

Thanks Paul it now seems so simple.

[Paul-Tll]

No probs mate glad to help :cheers
Paul..