Bleeder broken off in caliper.

[Martiny]

Hi there

Replaced one of the brake pipes going the front left of the RX-2.
So, now I need to bleed the brakes, and I go the left front wheel to open the bleeder.

WTF? Its broken off!!! (not by ME!)

This morning I had a go at getting the broken bleeder out. I have some "easy outs" which are basically left handed self tapping bolts, but then its breaks off inside! the easy out is quite hardened, so my chance of drilling through it are quite remote :-( .

I removed the caliper to have a go in the vice, I tried a punch to try and push it round. The material is quite soft, though, so its just breaking without turning.


:-((((((((((((((( A half hour job turned into a nightmare!


Carl, any chance of a left front caliper lying around?

Guys, should I:

1) - just drill it out (bigger) and try and get an insert? (would you feel safe driving with that arrangement??).

2) - take it to an engineering shop and see what they say?

3) - there is a garage that specializes in classic cars down the road from me. maybe I'll take the caliper to him and see what he says?

Thanks for ANY advice!

[Martiny]

Ok, 2 more questions..

1) Is there any way to bleed a caliper without a bleeder?

2) Where can I get a set of REALLY hard drills? (Harder than the easy out stuck in there)

After having another look, now, I think I forgive the person who broke it in the 1st place. Its pretty rusty, and the wahtever they make the bleeder nippe out of, is quite soft. This might be a saving grace, as it might mean I can get the old one out without too much damage to the caliper.

I could also grind it down a bit. This might remove the material where the caliper and the bleeder are rusted together?

Thanks again.

[clive]

Hi Martin,

Hmmmm easy-outs most defiantly a devils creation !!!

lt's been many years since l threw all mine away so l would not be temped to use them as they always cause more problems than you had in the first place !!

Any way if you remove the calliper and strip it bare , find a someone with gas welding equipment and heat what's left of the easy-snap sorry easy-out to cherry red to take the strength out of it and then it will drill out O/K and retap.

lf all else fails arc weld it over and l will tell you a technique how to bleed the calliper without a bleeder.

All the best Clive
clive@mazdarotaryclub.com
www.mazdarotaryclub.com

[Martiny]

Thanks Clive

I have ordered a set of Cobalt drills, so I'll try them. I am a little worried the heating up method will ruin the rubbers on the pistons.

I'll try the drills and see. I can heat it up with my welder which has a braising attachment.

The bleeder is really stuck, so I dont see a need to arc weld it in if I cant get it out!

I am sort of hoping to get it to JAE, ( must check with Henning and the wife, first) but most likely with the ford in it still. Do you know if any other RX-2's are going?

[clive]

You will be the only RX-2 there if you can make it , 3 RX-3s l think so far but no 2's, hopefully you can get both cars there .

Be real suprised if you can drill with any drills sorry ,To heat up you will only need to pull the pistons out .

All the best Clive
clive@mazdarotaryclub.com
www.mazdarotaryclub.com

[MikeLMR]

yep you'll not be able to drill an easy out (or a tap) with a drill bit, without any heat treatment first.

[Martiny]

Ok, I tried a cobalt drill, but not much progress, and broke one of them.

Ok, I found some help at
http://www.gis.net/~manjo/removing_broken_studs_bolts.htm

So, I'll have to heat it up. that means I have to remove the pistons. I wonder if I can find a piston rebuild kit anywhere? Glenn?

Will have a go tomorrow and let u all know.

[Martiny]

Also, found this method: What do you think?

Spot-annealing requires a drill motor and a nail or other steel rod about the diameter of the desired hole. Cut off the nail head and smooth the end, then chuck the nail into the drill motor. At high speed, attempt to drill a hole in the hardened steel. The attempt will fail, but the resulting friction will heat the metal until the point of contact turns straw, then bronze, then pea:censored::censored::censored::censored:, and, finally, blue.

Stop the heating process and allow the steel to cool while you replace the nail with a drill bit of the desired size. At low speed, using a cooling/lubricating fluid, drill the hole through the softened steel.

[MikeLMR]

sounds like it might work ... it'd be much simpler to take it to the local garage and let them heat it with a torch though

[clive]

Hi Martin,

Sorry don't think this will work as all the little bleeders l have come across are an Alloy therefore it's not going to fusion weld .

All the best Clive
clive@mazdarotaryclub.com
www.mazdarotaryclub.com

[Ray]

These guys may still have some old stock left, new calipers for £30 each, might be cheaper in the long run....

http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rootesgroup/Japanese.htm

[Martiny]

Clive you were right.

I even tried to braise a bolt onto the bleeder, but that failed. However, what it did do is anneal the easy-out, and I was able to drill it out. Blleder still stuck in, though.

Thanks, Ray I will order a new one. I would have to find a caliper rebuild kit somewhere anyway, plus its very rusted up inside, (probably from not being bled for so long), so a new one will be much much better. I hope its the right one they have, have sent them an email.

Clive, thought you were in le mans?

[clive]

Clive, thought you were in le mans?

Not this year with all the money my yellow toy has cost this year !!

All the best Clive.

[Martiny]

Thanks for everyones help. I have ordered a new caliper for £30 , which is already less than what I've spent on tools.

Now, do I have to replace the right hand caliper, too? I dont think so. It might be worth buying one, though? Where will I find a caliper rebuild kit if I ever need one in the future, say in 3 years time?

[MikeLMR]

for £30 each I would buy two ... thats a bargain ! and you can never be to safe with brakes