Engine Break In?

[Fish]

I am a little confused, someone posted this link on another FD list, and wondered what people thought of this idea for breaking in a new engine.

At the moment we are told 3000miles up to 2000rpm. Yet this article sort of gets ride of that idea.

HERE! (http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Tech?storeId=10001&subject=misc)

I would love to know what some of you guys think about this, as it looks like this is from the main Mazda engineers themselves.

TIA
Dan

[MikeLMR]

Thats for racing engines. Don't they usually run increased bearing clearances and different tip seal clearances. Probably means they might not need running in as much.

Wouldn't fancy doing the 60 miles at 8500 :eek:

[Fish]

Why not? I think the only with wrong with doing 60 miles at 8500rpm if 3rd gear is not a problem. Only dont try doing it in 5th! :yes

Dan

[MikeLMR]

ear plugs required :burnout

[bill shurvinton]

I have to say I have seen all sorts on break in, from those who say idling for hours is good to those who say get in and drive with no idling to those who say check for leaks then drive as normal.

Here is Pip's line: First 20 miles is the most critical, don't idle for ages on first start. 4-5K limit for 500 miles, change oil. Can't remember the 500-1000 recommendation, but by 1000 should be fully run in.

Best way (I guess) is to monitor compression. Once it stabilises you are run in (if you re-used the bearings). I've got new bearings so have to take a bit longer.

[Fish]

I have run-in a couple of boingers, and after the first 500 I change the oil. Using a low grade 0-30 or 5-30 minerial, not loading the engine at all. On the scoob, after the first 500 miles I increased the RPM but still kept off boost every 250 miles got me another 1000 RPM. Once up to the redline, I started to add boost, 5psi for the first 250 miles, then another 5 psi the next 250 miles, that sort of thing. After fully run in and a couple of thousand had been put on the engine I would swap to a good semi-synth. then after about 8-10k miles and not before I would look at good fully synth. oils.

To say that the engine was strong was an under statement. I would race motorbikes for fun, and WIN! I was holding 1.6BAR of boost on a large turbo. I loved that tuning, thus why I am now tuning the FD.

Just really wanted to get an idea of how rotarys should be run in.

Dan

[Steve Burnett]

My recomendation was to stay below 3K rpm for the first 500miles. Then change oil, then below 3.5K rpm for the next 200-300miles, then up to 1000miles stay below 4Krpm. Can't actually remember what was said after the first 1000 miles. All this was staying off boost.
The run in miles was 2000 miles.

[FDRZRich]

Originally posted by bill shurvinton

Here is Pip's line: First 20 miles is the most critical, don't idle for ages on first start. 4-5K limit for 500 miles, change oil. Can't remember the 500-1000 recommendation, but by 1000 should be fully run in.

On my warranty sheet from Pip, it said no higher than 4k for first 500 miles, then change the oil, then gradually increase revs at approx 1000rpm per 100 miles, so by 1000miles total the break in is complete.:D

[samfc3s]

could you tell me how much did u paid for the rebuild at wgt???i m just plannin to rebuild the engine and savin up for it if you dont mind me asking..thx

sam

[FDRZRich]

I didn't actually have to pay for it!! The garage I bought it from had them do it as it wouldn't pass emmisions on the SVA, sent it to them to check it out. They found that the side seals had gone, and agreed to pay for a full rebuild, at no extra cost to me- nice! So got new car with fresh rebuilt engine with years warranty.

I believe they go for about £2500-£3000 ish, depending on whether they use all new housings and end plates or not, and depending on where you go as well. Thats for a standard engine, obviously cost more if you want it ported etc.

Hope this helps

:D

[bill shurvinton]

Sometimes its nice to be a NA peasant. Rebuilds are so much cheaper :-)